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Travel Expert: "How do I navigate Japan's gay scene?"

Question:

Despite the recent earthquakes and tsunamis, I will be spending almost three months in Japan this summer. I'll primarily be in Tokyo, but will also be traveling around a bit.

I've heard that the Japanese can be very discriminatory against LGBT people, although there are supposedly tons of gay bars in Tokyo, for instance. But I've also heard that the gay scene in Japan is much different than anywhere else, and the bar scene is much more "intimate," with each bar focused on a certain type of guy.

Do you have any suggestions on navigating the gay scene in Japan, especially for someone who will be there as a tourist but also on business? Thanks!

Answer:

You’re right – Japan does have a unique gay scene that is very different from the rest of Asia.

Despite how modern Japan is, the closet still firmly exists, even in large cities like Tokyo. The main gay area in Tokyo is called Shinjuku Ni-chome, home to literally hundreds of gay bars (the city has over eight million residents). But walking through Shinjuku Ni-chome’s narrow streets, the bars are easy to miss since they are small places that can be cozy once you find them, but they tend to be tucked away in basements or on upper floors, with discreet signage out front.

Most LGBT bars are limited to certain genders and sometimes shocking notices such as “Please, foreigners refrain from entering” crop up here and there. With the sheer number of these tiny bars, each tends to attract a certain crowd (as with most gay bars around the world).

Bars don’t usually have blatant sex shows (like in Thailand or the Philippines) or gropey back rooms (like in Northern Europe) – in Japan, it’s more about discretion and socializing. Tokyo does have several gay saunas, but even in these, robes are generally worn for modesty and discretion.

Foreigners in Japan may feel exactly that – foreign. Japan can be an insular culture with many subtleties that a long time to understand. Japan does have a lot of gay infrastructure, you just have to know where to find it and how to navigate it. It’s best to make friends with a gay local who can show you the ropes and help translate the culture for you.

A great starting place is the gay web site http://utopia-asia.com, run by people who know the ins and outs of Asian cultures extremely well. You can also chat with locals via the web site before you get to Japan. Keep an open mind and have fun exploring!

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Matthew Link, a writer for Orbitz,  is the founding editor of two travel magazines, The Out Traveler and Sherman’s Travel, and he was also guidebook pioneer Arthur Frommer’s right hand man at Budget Travel magazine.

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