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Baltimore: Good Morning, Indeed

You might think it would be hard for Baltimore to live up the raucous, loopy reputation that’s its been given in all of John Waters’ films. After all, how could a city which has given the world Divine, Mink Stole, Edith Massey and such seminally trashy films like Pink Flamingos, Female Trouble, Desperate Living, Pecker and A Dirty Shame live up to its ribald rep? Even Hairspray, the most mainstream-y of all of Waters’ films still boasts a wicked, outsider sense of humor, now matter how much it might get cleaned up for Broadway.

But spend a weekend in Baltimore, and amid all of the city’s tourist-friendly charms—its shiny Inner Harbor waterfront, the cobblestones and pubs of Fells Point, and the artsy charm of Mount Vernon and Federal Hill and their cultural offerings—you’ll still get a sampling of the town’s funky charms. Chat up locals at a local tavern and you’ll soon get a sampling of the city’s down-home, non-fussy vibe. People are frank, but friendly. Strange, but kind of welcoming. And that’s the city’s best feature. No matter who you are, well-bred or hard-scrabble, you still get messy wielding a hammer and tearing into some amazing fresh crab. And who can resist a cheap beer slung by a salty barkeep, and Baltimore seems to have perfected the salty barkeep type.

There’s also a buzzing indie music scene, a fun and thriving queer culture, and just a affable, lack of attitude here that makes it a great weekend getaway. All this said, Baltimore’s best assets aren’t obvious. They’re found while eating a really good crab cake, drinking a hearty beer and enjoying casual conversation—and then maybe dancing around like a crazy person at a gay goth night. Come with these kind of earthy expecations, and you’ll be singing “Good Morning Baltimore” in no time.

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