If you’re traveling as a couple the gay-friendliness of a country’s hospitality industry can profoundly affect your travel plans, and the question of how the front desk will react to a same-sex couple requesting one bed can mean the difference between experimenting with locally- or family-run businesses or whether we retreat to the safety of a big chain hotel, where tolerance can be found at the cost of local flavor and experience. Fortunately Scotland’s hospitality industry is not only accepting of LGBT travelers, but seems to be going out of its way to welcome us with open arms.
Fresh off a family wedding, my boyfriend and I recently swung through Glasgow for a few relaxing days in this cozy and architecturally fascinating city. Upon arrival it’s surprising to learn that Glasgow is larger than the nearby Scottish capital Edinburgh, because Edinburgh somehow feels like a bigger city. But the difference lies in the fact that Edinburgh has become a major European tourist destination, while Glasgow, which has plenty to offer visitors, remains reasonably calm. Parts of Glasgow are robust and energetic, but its streets lack the manic chaos that packs some of Edinburgh’s more heavily traveled districts, making for a calmer though no less fun experience. It helps that Glasgow’s major tourist attractions aren’t packed into one concentrated tourism district, making the city a welcome respite from crowds and tourist traps. There’s plenty to experience here, especially for anyone who enjoys spending time wandering the streets and extensively enjoying its eclectic architectural wonders, breaking only for excellent food and great local brew in any of hundreds of local pubs.
We had the great pleasure of staying at the aBode Hotel, part of a UK hotel group whose aim is to create an exceptional hospitality experience, and they certainly accomplish this goal. The hotel refreshingly takes the best qualities of modern design hotels while casting aside the sometimes overwhelming – and at times exhausting – trendiness and attitude. Glasgow’s ABode leaves nothing to be desired in its design, successfully marrying crisp modern sensibility with elegant old-school architectural features. It’s hard to imagine anyone who wouldn’t find this to be one of their most comfortable hotel stays, no matter what kind of hotel experience you seek.
The dining experience at all the ABode hotels is created by two-star Michelin chef Michael Caines. The food at his eponymous on-site restaurant is exquisite, and set in a beautiful modern environment that comes across as somewhat more upscale than the more casual feeling in the hotel common areas and rooms. As a result the very stylish restaurant is more suitable to a romantic dinner for a couple and less well suited for kids or large groups.
Fortunately for us, a quiet romantic dinner in an elegant setting was exactly what we wanted, and the service and creative menu certainly didn’t disappoint. We started with pan-fried scallops with a parsnip and vanilla potato puree and a ginger and vanilla scented jus, and tartlet of pigeon with wild mushrooms and caramelized onions in a Madeira sauce, and yes it was all as good as it sounds. Our entrees, a salmon dish and roast guinea fowl, were equally good. But best of all was the dessert. We intended to share one order of the “Trio of Chocolate Desserts,” consisting of a hazelnut and milk chocolate parfait, dark chocolate mousse, and white chocolate ice cream, which we finished surprisingly quickly. Even more surprising was the fact we finished an entire second order, which was brought out to make up for a minor service confusion.
The next morning we laid out our own walking tour of the city, over coffee and breakfast sandwiches at Where The Monkey Sleeps, a laid-back yet upbeat café and art gallery around the corner from the hotel. We plotted out a path that would take us across the downtown area, and of course the first stop was to check out Glasgow’s biggest architectural star, Charles Rennie Mackintosh, whose masterpieces of Art Nouveau appear throughout the city. And one of the most popular destinations for Mackintosh fans is the famous Willow Tea Rooms, located on the car-free Sauchiehall Street in the heart of Glasgow’s bustling shopping district. Located above Henderson Jewelers, check out the light and airy tea gallery, but don’t miss the main attraction, the classic Room de Luxe located up another flight beyond the gallery. The place supposedly gets packed around tea time, and by early afternoon when we stopped by it was already hopping. The somewhat harried staff offers a large selection of teas and sandwiches as well as pastries and other snacks, and of course haggis.
If you’re looking to polish off your tea and dive into good shopping you’re in the right place. Sauchiehall Street is loaded with great UK shops of all kinds, and around the corner from where Sauchiehall ends, Buchanan Street begins. The shopping continues all the way down Buchanan to Princes Square and the St Enoch Shopping Centre. Here we found the most concentrated, though still not overwhelming crowds, who’ve come for what shopping junkies consider the best UK shopping outside of London.
Moving down quieter streets towards the stunning gothic Glasgow Cathedral we crossed the doorstep of the Glasgow Necropolis, a Victorian cemetery located on a hill high above the city. The Necropolis, which was strangely absent from our guide books, is well worth a stroll, taking you past aisles of beautiful crumbling mausoleums, monuments, gorgeous statues and sculpture, and of course the occasional goth teenagers out for a stroll among the tombs with video cameras in tow. The Necropolis also offers a terrific view of Glasgow Cathedral, a fantastic example of Gothic architecture and must-see attraction, most of which dates back to the 15th century.
After a full day of meandering with occasional pub stops, we met up with friends for dinner and a fun night out. Under the recommendation of the always-friendly and approachable ABode staff we strolled just around the corner from our hotel to Red Onion, a comfortable and reasonably-priced restaurant offering regional and international specialties in a warm and relaxed atmosphere. Try the delicious 5-spiced Gressingham duck breast with caramelized cox’s Pippin, crushed potatoes, and green peppercorn sauce. Here we heard more about concerted efforts to reach out to the gays in light of the recent change in marriage laws.
Our friend Daniel works at The Gables Hotel in Gretna, in the south of Scotland located close to the English border. The hotel, which has specialized in coordinating weddings and partnerships for 16 years, was eagerly debating how to represent themselves at the UK Gay Wedding Show in Manchester this fall, and trying to determine the best approach to attract gay grooms- and brides-to-be. The recent passing of laws allowing same-sex marriage seems to have jolted the marriage industries awake to the opportunities within our community. The pages of Gay Times, a leading UK gay magazine (and, according to their web site the largest gay magazine in the world), are now littered with an abundance of ads for all sorts of wedding jewelry, venues, and even wedding insurance.
Stepping out after dinner we found the Glasgow nightlife fun but a little on the slow side, although the two nights we were out were in the early part of the week. Delmonica’s is a modern pub and a fun place to start the evening. The music is dancey and loud, though not so loud that you can’t chat with friends, and somehow the rooms feel cozy and relaxed. The mixed crowd was made up of everyone from young LGBT college women to older gay men. For a louder and clubbier feel, the later crowd drifts towards Cube, which stays open later and is better for dancing though not as good for conversation. Most of the gay nightlife sits in this small area just off centrally-located George Square. We weren’t clear on what the locals thought of the area, following a cryptic experience with a middle-aged white guy in a suit who cautioned us against heading into the neighborhood on account of it being “nasty down there”, which could mean anything.
Our last stop was Court, a small pub populated by local guys of all ages and friendly though in need of some atmosphere. There we met the more boisterous half of a hilarious middle-aged male couple who’d been together for 17 years. Our new friend was excited to meet us and eager to share opinions on everything he’d recently experience in New York. On the cost of parking in Jersey City: “For eight dollars an hour why don’t you just take my fucking car?” On Ground Zero: “Horrible that they were selling souvenirs and turned it into Disneyland…” On New Jersey: “It’ll be nice when it’s finished.” And so forth.
All in all meeting people in Glasgow isn’t hard, especially when drinks are handy and they so often are. The nightlife, pubs, friendly hotel staff, and everyone we encountered seemed to eager to chat us up, and everyone had great stories and cheerful things to say. It’s refreshing to spend time in a city that so openly embraces us gays, and the tourism and hospitality industries here seem especially welcoming. It’s also interesting to note that two of the most famous bands to come out of Glasgow in recent years are LGBT faves Belle and Sebastian and Franz Ferdinand, both straight bands whose songs feature gay subjects and who support the LGBT community. The next time you’re bopping around Europe and looking for a few days of casual fun, swing by Glasgow for a pint and a natter, and maybe pick out a classy hotel or crumbling stone castle for a picture-perfect wedding.
