Need Some Snow? Go to Stowe, Vermont's Ski Mecca
Travel experiences are often thought of in terms of places — places we’ve been or hope to go, places where we learned to surf or first tried live octopus or some other exotic dish — but really travel is just as much, if not more, about the people we encounter in those places. Like that insane cab driver in Rome who spoke as fast as he drove without ever actually looking at the road, or the Brazilian beach boy you smoked has cigarettes with on the beach in Ipanema. Come to think of it, who can forget any of the boys in Rio?
Yes, it’s the people that make the place. I recently traveled to Stowe, Vt., for Winter Rendezvous, the annual gay ski weekend, and I wondered if I might meet three people in particular: Larry, Darryl and Darryl. Have I lost you? In one of the greatest sitcoms of all time, "Newhart," Bob Newhart runs an inn in a small Vermont town where he’s surrounded by a cast of eccentric characters. While the town of Stowe doesn’t venture quite so far into that oddball realm, there’s definitely something about the New England locale that cultivates a certain charming, quirky character. This is a place where a 50-something waitress wears bobby socks and says things like, “Here’s your change, even-stevens!”; where several men seem to be competing for some unannounced year-round Santa Claus look-alike contest; and where a bartender told me she’d married her husband after knowing him just 9 days, but left him soon after as she realized she “didn’t like him all that much after all.” Could all this snow and fresh air somehow be getting to their heads?
Stowe, Vt., is a 200-year-old village, and home to the state’s highest peak, Mount Mansfield. We flew in to Burlington Airport on a one-hour flight from JFK then drove 45 minutes to get to the town of Stowe. As someone who has can get lost in an elevator, I insisted on getting GPS for the rental car. This provoked peels of laughter from the agent, and when we arrived in Stowe I realized why. There is just one traffic light in the entire town. And it’s a flashing red light at that. Everything — hotels, bars and restaurants — is pretty much on either Main Street or Mountain Road, so even if you’re directionally challenged like me, you should have no problem finding your way around. If you don’t want to fly, driving to Stowe from one of the major metropolitan areas in the Northeast isn’t a bad option either. It’ll take you about 6.5 hours from New York City, and 3.5 from Boston, Albany, Hartford or Toronto.
First things first. If you love to ski, Stowe is a top-rate east coast destination. Sure, there are larger resorts like Killington which boast more trails, but with 39 miles of trails of varying difficulty and 13 lifts (including a high speed gondola), Stowe offers enough variety to keep most weekend skiers quite satisfied. And unlike Killington, there’s a quaint feeling to the skiing experience here. At some other mountains, joining the lift line is akin to being herded like cattle through a chute. Here we experienced no maze of lines for buying our tickets, renting equipment or to get on the lifts. Maybe we were just lucky, but the mountain was extremely quiet on this particular January weekend. Conditions were fantastic, with plenty of powder on well-groomed trails. We were just getting our ski legs back after a season off so we stayed on the intermediates, but there are a fair number of challenging diamonds for those with more experience. And skiers of all levels will appreciate the breathtaking views of a Vermont landscape painted in greens, grays and whites.
And now, the gay stuff. The liberal spirit is alive and well in Vermont, one of the first states to offer civil unions, and now marriage, to LGBT couples. The locals received my travel companion and I with an abundance of warmth and graciousness. In fact, everyone was so friendly, it’s down right unsettling. But while the atmosphere is receptive, Stowe isn’t exactly a hotbed of gay nightlife and excitement. Then again, Stowe isn’t exactly a hot bed of straight nightlife and excitement either. And that’s sort of the point. This is where you go to get away from the noise and buzz of the city. Winter Rendezvous, the annual gay ski week in Stowe is something of an exception to that. While it doesn’t attract the crowds at Gay Whistler or Telluride, Winter Rendezvous has a friendly, small vibe that matches the town itself. The organizer, Michael Wilson, told us that about 300 people participated in last year’s event, which included a hot tub soiree, après ski pizza parties and a farewell dance, among other things. Make no mistake, this isn’t the white party, unless you’re referring to the miles of snow. But that’s what makes it so relaxed and inviting. The crowd was friendly and diverse and "attitude" was non-existent. $165-$185 buys you weekend event registration with admission to all the events as well as deeply discounted lift tickets & equipment rental.
Now, if you’re in the mood for a splurge, or if that last mogul run wreaked havoc on your legs, a visit to Top Notch is a must. Rated one of the Top 10 Resort Spas in the United States by Conde Nast Traveler, Top Notch is just what its name implies. It’s elegant and luxurious but typical of New England restraint, free of pretension. After surrendering to a first rate massage, you can relax in your robe and slippers, kicking back in one of the cushy leather chairs that populate the men’s or women’s lounge. If you’re feeling hungry afterward, book a reservation at Norma’s, the resort’s excellent and tastefully appointed restaurant. Rooms here are generally on the pricey side for Stowe, but in line with what you’d expect from one of the few higher-end establishments in the area. Another luxe option is the recently opened Stowe Mountain Lodge. It has the advantage of being mountainside, so your next ski run is just steps away from your door.
Now if you recently watched your 401K pull something of a "Chris Angel: Mindfreak" disappearing act, I can suggest a stay at the inviting yet regretably named Stowe Motel. My travel mate and I got a deluxe suite with two bedrooms, a living room with fireplace and a full kitchen all for under $180 per night—a real recession buster.
But those are just two of the many options Stowe offers in terms of accommodations. There’s also a good number of restaurants here, but be warned, most of them stop serving by 10 p.m. Even if you’re not a ski bum, Stowe has its charms. One might even say the hills are alive with sound of music, sort of. Here, fans of the celebrated movie can visit or stay at the Von Trapp Family Lodge, the resort opened by Maria and the brood back in 1950. If shopping is more to your liking, the downtown boasts a handful of shops carrying local goods like maple syrup and chocolate. Want to live out your wildest Currier & Ives fantasy? Take a horse drawn sleigh ride from Gentle Giants Rides. Or while away an evening just sitting in front of the fireplace, hot toddy in hand. But whatever you do here, spend some time getting to know the people who call Stowe home. They’ll surely be a part of some of your best memories as well.
INFORMATION
TRAVEL PLANNING
Official Guide to Stove, Vermont: A site that will help you plan your next trip with events to see, places to stay and restaurants to sample.
HOTELS
4000 Mountain Rd
Stowe, VT 05672
Tel. 802-253-8585
Just as the name implies, this is one of the swankiest resorts in Stowe. Expect to be pampered in New England style. Named one of Conde Nast’s top 10 resort spas in America. Also ranked No. 1 in the Northeast for U.S. Tennis Resorts.
2043 Mountain Road Stowe, VT 05672
Tel. 802-253-7629
Fax: 802.253.9971
Offering a variety of clean, comfortable accommodations from rooms to suites and apartments. Rates for a two-bedroom suite with fireplace can be gotten for under $200 per day during peak season. The friendly staff and free firewood are just two of the perks.
Stoweflake Mountain Resort & Spa
P.O. Box 369,
1746 Mountain Road
Stowe, Vermont 05672
Tel. 802-253-7355 or 800-253-2232
Another well-known hotel in Stowe, the Stoweflake offers suites and townhouses, and a world-class spa in a AAA four-diamond rated resort.
Built in 2008 with 139 rooms that draw their design inspiration from turn of the century summer camps. Beautifully appointed and located slope side. Outdoor balconies provide up close views of Mt. Mansfield.
RESTAURANTS
4000 Mountain Road Stowe, Vermont 05672
Tel. 800-451-8686
Treat yourself to this beautiful setting at Top Notch Resort and enjoy some of the area’s best contemporary cuisine with Mount Mansfield as your backdrop. The perfect place for a special night.
2160 Mountain Rd # 2
Stowe, VT 05672
Tel. 802-253-7770
Some may prefer hot chocolate, but to us there’s nothing like a margarita after a long day on the slopes. Order up a round along with the tasty fish tacos and guacamole to refuel from a hard day of snow plowing.
McCarthy's
2043 Mountain Road
Stowe, VT 05672
Fueling up on the fluffy omelets, waffles and pancakes here won’t break the bank. McCarthy’s is just an old -ashioned diner with what seems to be a simple mission to server up good food friendly, fast & cheap.
ACTIVITIES
Annual Gay Ski event with parties, skiing and other activities. Plan ahead: Next year's ski week is Jan 19-23, 2011
Gentle Giants provides genuine horse drawn sleigh rides for those looking for a bit of old fashioned New England charm.
TIPS
* Skip the GPS. Stowe has a single blinking traffic light in all of town. Everything is essentially on one of two roads.
* For lodge dining on the slopes, head to Spruce Base Camp. This is the newest of the lodges at Stowe Mountain, and it has a far better and healthier selection of choices than Mansfield Base Lodge.
