NOTE: To watch Jimmy Im's great video journal from his visit to Santiago, just scroll down to the bottom of the page!

It's a cool Wednesday night in Santiago, Chile and Club Soda (yes, a club called Soda) is empty. For the first time in the history of dance clubs around the world, Lady Gaga sings to a deserted room. My friends and I, who stroll in already a little tipsy from pre-party at gay-friendly restaurant El Toro, are clearly perplexed. After all, the party on Wednesdays—called Good & Night—carries a reputation for being one of the liveliest, craziest party nights in the country for gays and lesbians.

We meander as the DJ continues to crank out great, lonely dance tunes, get a round of Cristal beers, think about going somewhere else when a short, round lesbian in glasses greets us, knowing a pack of confused Americans when she sees them.

"You're much too early," Carolina says.

I point out it's almost 2 am.

Carolina, who turns out to be the party promoter, gives me the "you don’t even know" look and tells us, again, it's early.

We stay and finish our beers to call her bluff.

Then young Chileans begin to flood into the club as if a party bus, on cue, had literally dropped them off. Within a half hour, gaggles of gays and loads of lipstick lesbians pass through the front door, gorgeous faces, smart outfits, positive attitudes. We dance through favorites like Ting Tings, Cut Copy, Calvin Harris and Madonna, fueled by cheap beers and good dance music. The club is packed, even when the lights come on, when the music cuts off, everyone stumbles out into the night, looking for the first after-party just shy of 5 a.m.

Santiago is a city full of surprises. At first glance, it's moody and complicated, still feeling the repercussions of dictator Pinochet's long rule until 1989. But once you look past the dark ring (that's gradually evaporating like a ghost of the past), optimism shines, almost tangible, as if the city is fighting to redeem itself from its former reputation.

Sure enough, it's not far behind from transforming into a new Santiago.

One of the most underrated cities in South America, Santiago is emerging as a top destination. A W Hotel is opening this year and new, hip boutiques and restaurants continue to mushroom throughout the city. The city itself is getting a face lift with preparations for their bicentennial (2010). Locals anticipate new bike lanes, cultural centers, museums and a complete overhaul to the ubiquitous parks in the city.

While there's no specific gayborhood, barrio Bella Vista is the choice stomping ground for the homos. It's chock full of shops, galleries, theaters, cafes and restaurants. Meanwhile, check out the hip new eatery, Casa Abarzua in the nearby Bellas Artes area, which is less than a year old and features some innovative Asian-Chilean fusion dishes. Its "pop" interior features colorful wallpaper, mannequins propped on the bar and an outdoor patio with festive lights. Also in Bellas Artes, Pablo Neruda's home/museum is eye candy in itself, a vintage masterpiece with detailed architecture and furnishings.

The city also serves as the main hub for other popular destinations, like the sublime deserts of Atacama Desert or the artsy port city of Valparaiso, only an hour's drive. Popular excursions abound, though “pit-stops” in Santiago are becoming a thing of the past.

Launching point or not, a visit to Santiago isn't complete without a day trip to one of the terrific vineyards nearby. The popular Haras de Pirque Vineyard is only a 40-minute drive, and it gives travelers (who can't make it farther out) a sample of the "real" Chile that includes the rustic allure of the outdoors (nature is a highlight of the country). The vineyard is in the sprawling Maipo Valley wine making region that's all sky and all grapes.

The award-winning Haras de Pirque features some of the best wines (and strongest, with a Cab at 14.5% alcohol!) in the region.

Speaking of wine, The Ritz-Carlton is perhaps the hotel gays prefer when in Santiago, and with good reason. For one, there’s the popular “wine bath" fixed in your room by a butler, a Ritz-Carlton exclusive that features local Carmenere wine and oats and, of course, an accompanying glass of the red.

The Ritz-Carlton Santiago is relatively inexpensive for the brand, and located in the burgeoning Las condos neighborhood (a few blocks from where W will open), also known as "Sanhattan" for its skyscrapers and "busy" atmosphere.

Try the restaurant Adra, run by executive chef Tomas Olivera, who just also happens to be the consultant for LAN airlines in-flight menu (LAN's home base is Santiago).

The Ritz-Carlton’s spa terrace has some of the most commanding views in the city, the Andes Mountains serving as a backdrop while you sip on pisco sours on the outdoor patio or inside Jacuzzi, a perfect moment before heading out all night to the clubs. And if you’re going to party “after hours,” just make sure the butler sets the wine bath at, say, 6 a.m.

Information

Touring There: Santiago Adventures offers gay-friendly, guided tours for those who want more in-depth exploration.

Finding Out More: The kind folks at Turismo Chile (the official government tourism guide) can help.

Flying There: LAN Airlines flies direct from NYC and Miami. The airline's business class offers full-flat seats (the only from the US to South America), as well as state-of-the-art technology, award-winning wines and terrific culinary options.

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