Fort Lauderdale is a funny place. It’s got a great beachfront: perfect for tanning and swimming, oceanside paths to bike and jog along, and palm trees and breezy atmosphere galore. There are swank and smart beach-facing hotels with oceanview pool bars and world-class restaurants. It’s also got Wilton Manors, a neighborhood lined with strip malls full of gay shops and bars, lending a fun and no-frills attitude to the gay scene. Sure, the crowd often may skew a bit older (as in 45+), and you might see lots of guys in bedazzled, Ed-Hardy-esque T-shirts, but this is Florida. Relax! Plus, they’ll all be glad to see you. The point is to relax and let the sunshine-soaked warmth wash all your fussy worries away.

Wintertime is, of course the high season, but there’s room for you. I visited during the peak week between Christmas and New Year’s and it was still easy to get in bars, restaurants and find room for your towel on the beach. And when it’s 80 degrees and sunny in late December, it’s hard to fuss.

Here’s a few of my top picks for what made my visit worthwhile.

The classic way to stay in Fort Lauderdale is at one of the many charming gay-owned inns, many of which are located just two or three blocks from the great Fort Lauderdale beachfront on the streets just south of Sunrise Drive.

One great place to stay is The Flamingo: Inn Amongst the Flowers. Innkeepers Ray and Chip put me up for two great nights in this sunny and charming palm-filled enclave: it’s very classic Florida. Inside its gates you’ll find a great pool area, lots of palms and greenery, patio tables and chairs which are perfect for breakfasting, and the rooms are stylish and stately, breezy and handsome with sunny accents, comfy furnishings (and yes, some sexy black and white photographs). The vibe is very upscale and friendly.

I really enjoyed getting to chat a bit over cocktails with my fellow guests, who were a mix of gay men, some couples, some groups of friends, from places like Atlanta, Chicago, New York and Amsterdam. There’s an evening cocktail hour from 5:30-6:30 and it’s a laid-back chance to drink and mingle.

In the blocks surrounding The Flamingo are other gay-owned inn/resort options. Check out the websites for one you’re interested in. Some may have a more heated sexual vibe. The Flamingo doesn’t. It’s class all the way.

The Flamingo: Inn Amongst the Flowers, 2727 Terramar St., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33304; tel. 800-283-4786; http://www.theflamingoresort.com/; Rooms from $150-$370.

If you want to stay at a big hotel, there are many good ones lining the beachfront in Fort Lauderdale. The W Hotel opened in April 2009 and immediately created a buzz. The rooms are sexy, and well-appointed; those with southern exposure have better light and more sun all day (including great sunset views). If you’re sharing a room, be sure that you’re traveling with either your significant other, or just someone you don’t mind seeing naked. The shower or baths in the rooms are only divided from the bedroom area by a clear glass wall, so there’s not much privacy. The result is sexy, but it could be awkward too.

The hotel’s lobby is a dim and stylish lounge on the 4th floor, and it’s great to sit outside on the patio with a view over the beach and have a drink at sunset. And the pool area, dubbed Wet, on the fifth floor is a great spot to sun and sip pricey cocktails and snack on good lunchy fare.

One caveat: The hotel’s customer service skills are a bit iffy. Orders to room service for some simple items may or may not show up. The rooms are without coffeemakers, and they be able to provide one, but then again, maybe not. The W’s not on par with a Ritz-Carlton or Four Seasons when it comes to service. Here it’s more about the brand, and W is a slave to style. That said, I did enjoy my nights there. The artwork around the property is great, and you do feel like a bit of a hip celebrity swanning around.

Other new properties on the beach worth considering are the Ritz-Carlton (Fort Lauderdale’s first five-star property; think quiet extravagance) and the Westin.

W Hotel Fort Lauderdale, 401 N. Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33304; tel. 954-414-8200; http://www.wfortlauderdalehotel.com/; Rooms begin at about $289 in low-season.

Just opened in mid-December 2009, The Manor is Fort Lauderdale’s big new gay bar news. More than one person there compared it to The Abbey in West Hollywood, and it’s probably fair to say that The Manor does aspire to be a big, sprawling gay-bar enclave that serves food (in its restaurant, The York), offers a bakery/coffeehouse as well as many different bar areas (including a sportsbar and a martini bar), a grand thumping dancefloor (Epic nightclub), and even a room which was cranking salsa-flavored dancing on a busy Saturday night.

The guys here are Fort Lauderdale’s gay jet-set. They’re younger, shiny and decked out for a night on the town. I spied porn star Matthew Rush chatting with friends. I’m guessing that on big nights, there may be lines, but on the Saturday night between Christmas and New Year’s getting in was not a problem. Either way, this is the new place to go.

The Manor Restaurant & Lounge, 2345 Wilton Dr., Wilton Manors, FL 33305; tel. 954-626-0082; http://www.themanorcomplex.com; check the website for an constant line-up of events.

Fort Lauderdale has got a serious bear crowd. They’re everywhere and they’re having a fabulous time, by all accounts. On the gay beach by Sebastian Street you’ll see some seriously pumped up muscle bear types. At the Ramrod or at Georgie’s Alibi or at the Sunday T-dance at the Sea Monster – or just about any bar in town – you’re gonna see them. If you’re a fan of big guys, you’ll be happy here.

Meet Fort Lauderdale’s bears at Georgie’s Alibi, The Ramrod, on the beach at Sebastian Street, or just about any gay place in town.

One really nice place to have a drink is the Lobby Bar in the Ritz-Carlton Hotel by the beach. (That is, if you’re feeling like a break from beachfront bars, clam shacks or the gay joints over in Wilton Manors.) And you should. It’s nice. Of course, drinks will be at Ritz-Carlton prices, but sitting there gazing at the vastly fabulous hand-painted mural of Neptune behind the bar is about as lovely as things get.

The Lobby Bar at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 1 North Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33304; tel. 954-465-2300; http://www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/FortLauderdale/Default.htm

Now you’ve got your swanky drink out of the way (see the Ritz-Carlton bar plug, above), for a fun gay belt, I’d recommend Sidelines Sports Bar. It’s Fort Lauderdale’s bustling and festive gay sports haven. Play pool, watch a game, play darts or tunes on the jukebox, and let the many friendly bartenders get you tipsy. (If you can, go and order from Tanner; she’s the short, blondish lesbian and she pours like a champ and is nice as the day is long.)

The crowd is a mix of neighborhoodsy folks, real sports fans, gay daddies and twinks, and they’re always happy to meet visitors. Play ball!

Sidelines Sports Bar, 2031 Wilton Dr., Wilton Manors, FL 33305; tel. 954-563-8001; http://sidelinessports.com/

Sorry, I should clarify. This indulgence is very steamy and gratifying, but not in that way. I’m talking about the truly wonderful Restore Trio Treatment on offer at the The Spa Atlantic at the beachfront Atlantic Hotel (believed by many to be the best spa in town).

First, you get a foot treatment that involves soaking your tired hooves in a mixtures of eucalyptus oils and soothing chocolate powder. It sounds crazy, but it’s really nice. Then you strip down, hit the massage table and get scrubbed from head to toe with a refreshing mixture of honey and sugar. Your massage therapist (Ask for Alberto, if you can!) then wraps you in warm towels where you steep in a state of semi-conscious bliss for a while. After a heavenly shower, you then get rubbed down with a fantastic massage (also from top to bottom), and eased into a richly rewarding delirium fueled by honeyed oils.

I’m not lying when I say it was the best massage experience of my life. Check it out.

The Spa Atlantic at the Atlantic Hotel, 601 N. Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33304; tel. 866-318-1101; http://www.atlantichotelfl.com; the Restore Trio treatment is $165 plus 20% gratuity.

Speaking of superlatives, the best meal I ate in Fort Lauderdale was at Steak 954, located in the W Hotel. It’s a Stephen Starr restaurant (he owns great places in NYC like Buddakan and Morimoto, and brilliant joints in Philly like The Continental, El Vez, Alma de Cuba and Parc) and this is his first in a hotel. And it rocks.

I dined with two friends on a Sunday night and everything we tasted was meticulously flavorful, sublimely prepared and just delicious. My Kobe beef fillet was creamy and richly meaty, and the duck breast my friends enjoyed was served on a bed of hearty, earthy lentils. Our truffle potatoes gratin was as amazing as it sounds, and a simple side of sautéed mushrooms was like a road trip through a smokey French village in the fall.

To top it off, our server at Steak 954 was the enthusiastic and bracingly articulate Megan who was as excited about our meal as we were. Her recommendations were spot on, and she had a true gift for describing the food that made ordering a delight. Ask for her!

Steak 954, 401 North Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33304; tel. 954.414.8333; http://www.steak954.com/

Wanna dine at some fun gay places in Fort Lauderdale that will still feed you well?

Trina is nationally known and highly recommended Mediterranean restaurant at the Atlantic Hotel; drinks in the bar there are a must while you’re in town. Galanga is a local hotspot and institution where you’ll get really tasty Thai food and sushi served up a cutely stylish and gay-popular atmosphere. Even in the wintertime it’s warm enough to sit outside on their patio, knock back some breezy cocktails with dinner and eye the cute help.

Rosie’s (formerly Hamburger Mary’s) is great fun and reliably good. It’s all about burgers and comfort food and the vibe is gay and cheery. H20 Café right on the beachfront at A1A at Cortez Street, and it’s a great place for a sunny lunch or late breakfast where you can watch the sidewalk traffic prance by.

For Cajun grub—like really good fried green tomatoes, hushpuppies, chicken wings and mind-bending Black N Blues (which are freshly shucked oysters topped with butter, crumbled bleu cheese and spices, then broiled), go to Shuck N Dive on North Federal Highway. It’s the best food you’ll ever eat at a little pink mini-mall.

Mai Kai is a local institution; it's a throwback to Polynesian theme restaurants from the 50's and 60's, and it's a totally fun place to have strong cocktails served in coconuts in a classic tiki bar, as you nosh on pad thai or tasty meats and seafood (and the requisite pu pu platter). And yes, there's a show complete with hula dancers, island men twirling flaming batons, and a cheesy host in a Hawaiian shirt. Kitsch aside, the food is really good! Aloha, Mary!

And lastly, Canyon is a longtime locals’ favorite dishing up stylish Southwestern cuisine. It can be slow during the peak season, but those in the know swear by it. And nobody hates their prickly pear margaritas.

For details on all of these restaurants, check out TripOut’s Destination Guide to Fort Lauderdale.

Sundays are a great time out in Fort Lauderdale. Locals swear by the long-running Sunday evening tea dance at the Sea Monster. It's way gay and hopping from 5pm on. Drinks are cheap, the music jumps and the crowd is uber-festive.

Then, the party hearty often head to VooDoo, which draws a good Sunday late-night crowd that's a cool mix of just about everybody on the sexual spectrum. It's not totally gay and definitely has an edge to it. Plus: Drag shows! The night's first show is at 11pm, the queens are always a bit eccentric and madcap, and they usually go into the wee hours.

Sunday T-Dance at the Sea Monster Bar, from 5pm-2am; 2 South New River Drive W, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301; tel. 954-767-6200; http://seamonsterbar.com.

Since you’re in Florida, you might as well get a sample of the flora and fauna. And if a visit to Billie Swamp Safari is good enough for the deranged ladies of the Real Housewives of Orange County (yep, they visited this past season) it’s good enough for you.

Go on a weekday if you can; it’ll be less crowded. First, the hour drive out of Fort Lauderdale is mind-clearingly relaxing. And then when you arrive get your airboat ride ticket and go straight to the launch and line up. You definitely want to experience this loud, rip-roaring blast across glades and swamplands, sniffing out wildlife as your guide clues you in to the freakily unique natural life.

Also be sure to climb on one of the Swamp Buggy tours. If yours is like the one I took, it’s worth the ticket if only for the narration by the cheeky and irreverent guide. We were driven around and shown all the creatures by a snarky and sharp 20-something gal who knew her nature, and how to keep a crowd of tourists laughing and on their toes. And yep, you will get smacked in the face by big palm tree branches. Get ready!

Billie Swamp Safari, on the Big Cypress Seminole Indian Reservation in the Florida Everglades, Off of I75 (Alligator Alley). Clewiston, FL; tel. 800-GO-SAFARI; http://www.swampsafari.net/; Admission is free but a day package which includes the one-hour Swamp Buggy Eco-Tour, Airboat Tour, the Snake & Alligator Educational Show or the Swamp Critter Show is $43.20 per adult.

Lastly, one of my favorite experiences in Fort Lauderdale was visiting Bonnet House Museum and Gardens, the villa built by artist Frederic Clay Bartlett, a wealthy Chicagoan. The property, originally owned by Bartlett’s father-in-law, Hugh Taylor Birch, also a rich Chicagoan, is now a tropical haven of green and 1920s eclecticism fronting the beach in Fort Lauderdale.

Tour the kookily charming house, full of Bartlett’s artworks (and those of his second wife, Evelyn Fortune Lilly (also a Chicago heiress and artists) and get a glimpse into how the moneyed set played in the 20s, 30s and 40s. Ceilings are painted with fun murals, there are shell mosaics over walls and framing doorways and the entire quirky, breezy mansion is a charmer.

Plus, you can also speculate on the sexuality of both Bartlett and his father-in-law Birch, who both seem a bit just arty and eccentric enough to raise eyebrows. Also the gardens are full of roaming iguanas – and monkeys! A great half-day folly.

The Bonnet House, 900 N. Birch Rd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33304; tel. 954-563-5393; admission $20; http://www.bonnethouse.org.